Milan Fashion Week is always a must-visit – especially when this prominent fashion event is full of important cases connected with Ukrainian designers. Which ones? You’ll find out soon, and now first things first: my Milan fashion week diary begins on 21st of September.
On Wednesday I had several meetings with fashion editors, buyers, designers and retailers, including visits to Missoni office and 10 Corso Como. My first show this time in Milan was Alberta Ferretti: amazing surroundings of Rotonda della Besana, smiling workers of the atelier, welcoming visitors at the show (to give clients a look at the ‘inner’ part of the fashion and to present all of the fashion brand members seems to be a trend now), feminine looks, inspired with traditional Spanish motives, were a great start. My next destination was a presentation of the brand Cote: they’ve showed an interesting set of improvisations, based on classical shirt silhouette. I really enjoy watching young designers like Tomaso Anfossi and Francesco Ferrari feeling comfortable in the industry, growing and being brave enough to experiment. After a cocktail organized by Miu Miu I needed to satisfy my interest in the new names and headed straight to the Vogue Talents showcase. Italian Vogue and Alta Roma annually unite and chose the most promising young designers to give them an opportunity to present themselves during Milan fashion week. My personal favorites this year are works by Ioanna Solea and Aurora James.
After seeing as always luxuriantly decorated, full of evening gowns and bright details Cavalli collection I’ve finished my first day with Philipp Plein show. Brand’s team created an atmosphere of a real concert at the runway, building a mini-city in pastel colors with a huge carousel in the center and accompanying the show with live-performances by Fergie and Papa Joe. Designer announced that this was the last Philipp Plein show taking place in Milan: next one will be on the New York fashion week’s schedule. I believe it’s a wise decision: as Europe is already conquered, it’s time for Philipp to fight for his place at the American fashion market.
I’ve considered Thursday to be one of the most important days of Milan fashion week: everyone tames their breath when it comes the time for Prada to show something new. But before their evening show I had a day full of other pleasant fashion surprises. Santoni presentation was an amazing experience, with decorations made by Chanel show directors and creative concept developed by Angelo Flaccavento, one of the best Italian fashion journalists. I also enjoyed the new collection by The Attico: after presenting their first collection a year ago, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini made some noise in the fashion industry, at once getting their place at 40 luxury boutiques and selling out all of the pieces on Net-a-Porter in just one hour. Their second collection proves it’s about real talent, not luck: it’s again girly and vintage at the same time, with lovely embroidery and exclusive prints.
After seeing a new home- and sleep-wear collection For Restless Sleepers by Francesca Ruffini (this one is destined to be commercially successful as designer totally knows her target audience and their needs), I went to see Emilio Pucci show – we’re good friends with Laudomia Pucci, and I’m never missing anything done by this brand. What I enjoyed about the collection were the colors, though I felt the lack of a real fashion feel, experiment and audacity in it.
Than it was time for Prada: exceptional, surprisingly feminine and comfortable, with unusual for Prada usage of marabou feathers and flat shoes collection made me anticipate the re-see. The last for the Thursday was Moschino show, traditionally playful and bright.
My Friday in Milan began with Diesel Black Gold show: even though it’s obvious that brand’s aiming for the commecrial succeess and makes really wearable collections, their shows are always beautifully styled. My favourite designer Marco de Vincenzo was showing next. For me it’s a great example on how brand may become successfull and loved by important fashion industry players without spending millions on promo.
Next stop was La Rinascente: this year during the Milan fashion week four ukrainian brands are presented on the second floor of the biggest Italian department store. Seeing mannequins dressed in Anouki, WeAnnaBe, Anna K and Theo pieces, realizing international clients are hugely interested in Ukrainian fashion makes me enourmously proud. That’s the moment when you feel: now our country is a full member of the worlds fashion community.
The same day I’ve visited Gianvito Rossi’s show: brand celebrated their 10th anniversary. And I’ve finished my Friday enjoying new Versace collection: nobody does sport-chic looks better than Donatella, and you hardly ever see a more feminine model’s casting on one runway, including Naomi Campbell and Irina Shayk.